Much more than flamenco and bullfights, Spain has everything from cutting-edge museums to quaint fishing villages, green highland valleys, soaring cathedrals, medieval towns, designer cuisine, spirited nightlife, and an immense treasury of painting and sculpture. At the hub of it all is Madrid, one of Europe's liveliest capitals. It's the seat of the Spanish government and a center for the national media. Beyond the designer boutiques and chic restaurants, however, you'll find a simple Castilian town. Life here is lived in cafés and rustic taverns. All it takes to become a local is to duck inside one. Barcelona, whose leafy streets are lined with stunning art nouveau and modernist architecture, rivals Madrid for power and is generally regarded as the winner in culture and style. Although both cities are exciting, most exciting for anyone vacationing in Spain is the nationwide insistence on enjoying life. On a trip here, you'll no doubt catch that spirit, too.