Mazatlán is the ancient Nahuatl word for "place of the deer," but this string of beautiful beaches has changed a lot since then. Today you'll find the Zona Dorada, or “Golden Zone,” where the hotels rise high, the shopping is frenetic, and the waterfront sunsets go down with the colorful ease of drinks with paper umbrellas. Many people never bother to explore the rest of the city, but Viejo Mazatlán (Old Mazatlán), the city's historic center, is well worth a look. Since the 1990s, when the stately 19th-century Angela Peralta Theater was restored from rubble, other post-colonial buildings lining the narrow streets have steadily been revitalized by returning businesses, restaurants, art galleries, and trendy clubs. And all around the city, vibrant neighborhoods bounce to the beat of the banda music that was born here.