Dublin

Summer offers a real lift, as the natives spill out of the pubs into the slew of sidewalk cafés and open-air restaurants. The week around St. Patrick's Day (March 17) is, naturally, a nonstop festival of parades, cultural happenings, and "hooleys" (long nights of partying). Christmas in Dublin seems to last a month, and the city's old-style illuminations match the genteel, warm mood of the locals.

A sweater is a must year round; even summer nights can get chilly. Dublin gets its share of rain (though a lot less than other parts of Ireland), so an umbrella is a good investment.

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• Georgian Elegance : Dublin's signature architectural style makes its most triumphant showing in Merrion, Fitzwilliam, Mountjoy, and Parnell squares.

• Stout History : The Guinness Brewery and Storehouse is a high-tech museum that tells the story of Guinness, Dublin's black blood. At the top, the Gravity Bar has the city's best views.

• Toe-Tapping "Trad" : If your head is still throbbing from last night's sing-along at the pub, head to other music-mad venues like the Olympia Theatre for the best in Irish folk music.

• Magnificent Museums : From the Renoirs at the Hugh Lane to the Tara Brooch at the National Museum and the first editions of Joyce at the Dublin Writers Museum, Dublin is one big treasure chest.

• Trinity College : An oasis of books, granite, and grass sits at the heart of the city. Highlights are the exquisitely illustrated Book of Kells and the ornate Long Room.

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